Ruben Dawnay: A Culinary Talent in Brixton
19 March 2024
Ruben Dawnay’s hand-smoked meats have gained him tens of thousands of Instagram followers, a bricks-and-mortar Brixton restaurant, and spawned pop-ups at some of London’s favorite restaurants—all before his 24th birthday. After being named “One to Watch” by The UK’s Top New Restaurant Awards, chef and food writer Gizzi Erskine meets the promising talent who has been honing his skills.
Ruben approaches with a warm hug, radiating an energetic vibe that reflects his Brixton roots. Standing tall with sparkly eyes and flawless skin, he embodies the youthful exuberance that many of us miss as we age.
Having closely followed Ruben’s remarkable journey, it’s inspiring to witness his ascent to being recognized in the UK’s Top New Restaurant Awards. His culinary adventure began during his A-levels while working as a server in a pizza restaurant in Brixton Village. This was just before the pandemic hit, coinciding with the heartbreaking closure of Monti’s Deli, a landmark for Jewish cuisine in London. Seizing the moment, Ruben began mastering the art of making authentic salt beef and pastrami.
Ruben’s heritage is rooted in second-generation Polish-Jewish traditions, yet he grew up on Polish food, fostering a genuine curiosity towards both cuisines. This curiosity sparked his passion for smoked meats, from pastrami to cold-smoked salmon, and led to popular dishes like his famous latke. A competition at Brixton Market showcased his skills and placed him alongside culinary talents who would go on to define London’s restaurant scene.
Subsequently, Ruben launched his first pop-up in Brixton, which evolved into meal kits during lockdown. As life resumed, he embraced a more traditional path in the culinary world, working at Naughty Piglet under the guidance of Michelin-trained chef Joe Sharatt. His journey continued, eventually leading him to invest in a large smoker to cater to his growing client base.
A Unique Dining Experience
Today, I find myself in Ruben’s first restaurant, located in the heart of Brixton Village. This establishment seamlessly blends South Western smokery vibes with traditional Jewish deli elements, reflecting South London’s multicultural spirit. Eagerly, I order a Bloody Mary, though I regret not trying the Café Con Leche Martini.
As we settle in, my friend and I decide to indulge in a variety of small plates alongside the signature Reuben Bagel made from dough crafted at Robin’s bakery.
Delicious Dishes and Bold Flavors
The first dish arrives—a robust spiced lamb sausage, perfectly juicy with a hint of smokiness—accompanied by pickled onions and a creamy smoked aubergine sauce. This dish sets the bar high for the rest of the meal.
Next, we enjoy potato skins topped with herbed pomme purée and melted cheddar, paired with barbecue brisket and crispy shallots. The nostalgic flavors transport me back to iconic London eateries.
As the burnt ends are served, they demonstrate Ruben’s innovative approach to smoked meats—a tender pork belly with a delicate honey glaze. The smoked chicken wings are infused with deep, satisfying flavors, complemented by a creamy Alabama white barbecue sauce that is comforting yet bold.
Finally, we indulge in Ruben’s best-selling dish: the Reuben’s Reubens. The meat is tender and smoky, and the Russian dressing strikes a perfect balance. While it may not be the absolute best pastrami I’ve tasted, it holds incredible potential. Ruben’s talents reflect the exciting shift within London’s food scene, ensuring that he is recognized for his contributions at such a young age.
Ruben Dawnay is undeniably someone to watch, as he continues to capture the hearts and palates of diners across London with his remarkable culinary skills.
