More often than not, a ski trip can easily get bogged down with nightmare traffic, impossible lift lines, and overpriced everything — so much so that it sometimes feels as if ski resorts have forgotten about the skiing itself. Set your sights just a bit north, however, and you’ll find what insiders have long considered one of the best regions in the world for true snow sports connoisseurs, a place where untamed adventure thrives: the Kootenay Rockies, nestled in the southeastern corner of British Columbia.
True, it requires just a little more travel time to visit our neighbor to the North than it takes to get to, say, Mammoth or Park City — and you’ll need a passport. However, with favorable exchange rates, some of the deepest snow on the planet, and thinner crowds, the time feels right to head north for a Canadian ski trip.
This corner of British Columbia offers an impressive array of snow sports at all levels for downhill, cross-country, and backcountry enthusiasts alike, with 8 of the country’s top alpine ski resorts, 16 backcountry huts, 23 backcountry serviced lodges, 15 cat-ski operators, 20 heli-ski operators, and 16 nordic centers — all of which are neatly organized along a 630-mile driving loop adorably referred to as the “Powder Highway.” If you were to draw the route out on a map, in the most general of terms, it goes from Revelstoke, south along the Columbia River to Rossland, east to Cranbrook and Fernie, then all the way north through Golden, and finally back over to Revelstoke. It would take many visits to experience every attraction along the Powder Highway, and a lifetime to learn the nuances that make each destination along the way unique. However, if you’ve got a winter-ready rental car and a can-do attitude, you can do a “greatest hits” tour in just under one week’s time.
How to Get There
In terms of getting to this winter paradise, the good news is that this region is serviced by various international and regional airports. Castlegar, B.C. for instance, is physically closest to the route itself but is a small regional airport, meaning flights can be pricey and unreliable if the weather is inclement. Spokane, Washington, on the other hand, is just 2.5 hours from the Powder Highway route and is easily reached from several major U.S. airports. Kelowna, B.C. and Calgary International Airport are also reliable options — it just depends on which mountains you want to prioritize and for how long you want to enjoy the open road.
Revelstoke
Numerous ski guides and competitive winter sports professionals call Revelstoke home, and for good reason — Revelstoke Mountain Resort offers the highest lift-accessed vertical in North America, as well as some of the most challenging terrain you’ll find anywhere. However, you need not be an Olympian to make the most of Revy. This winter, a new fixed-grip quad called the Stellar Chair has opened up new beginner and intermediate terrain, making an excellent playground for beginner skiers working their way up to Revy’s famously “steep and deep” runs. From the resort, Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing offers single-day packages perfect for first-time heli-skiers or those who can’t commit to the usual five- or seven-day package most other operators offer. In town, Dose Coffee serves some of the best espressos in this part of Canada. Moreover, the beers, unpretentious pub grub, and welcoming environment at The Village Idiot make it a great place to find new friends.
Nelson
As you drive south, stop for a soak at the Halcyon Hot Springs, which offer four mineral-rich pools overlooking Upper Arrow Lake. Continue on down to Nelson, known for its artists, artisans, and landmarked heritage buildings. While not the largest hill in the area, Whitewater Ski Resort has a refreshingly approachable vibe — and its famous Fresh Tracks Café (located at 5,400 feet) offers a different take on mountain food, with health and indulgent options for vegans, the gluten-free, as well as the carnivorous and bread eaters alike.
Rossland
Few Powder Highway hotels have become “destinations” in their own right quite like The Josie, offering tastefully designed rooms with expansive views and bringing new meaning to the term “slopeside accommodations” (it’s located literally steps from RED Mountain Resort’s chair lifts). After working up an appetite on some of the best gladed tree runs in North America, grab one of the outdoor tables at The Velvet Restaurant and Lounge to unwind with a local beer or handcrafted cocktail. Better yet, stay for dinner — the food there is considered some of the best in this part of B.C.
Fernie
With five powder-packed alpine bowls, there is plenty of terrain to love at Fernie Alpine Resort. Moreover, if you’re really looking to expand your skill set, consider enrolling in the resort’s two-day Backcountry Basics course, which introduces avalanche safety, ski touring equipment, and techniques. Consequently, by the end of the class, you will begin to understand that the beauty of the Powder Highway isn’t just the ski resorts themselves — it’s the abundance of off-piste opportunities that make this entire seven million acre region a living, breathing embodiment of ski culture at its finest.
Golden
Last but certainly not least is the town of Golden, home to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, which boasts over 2,800 acres of skiable terrain, 4 bowls, and thrilling ridge lines as far as the eye can see. The mountain’s upper reaches cater to expert skiers, but less adventurous skiers will feel perfectly at home with easier runs on the lower mountain. Wherever you ski, ensure you allocate time for an après-ski beer at Eagle’s Eye Restaurant — perched at 7,700 feet, it offers Canada’s “most elevated” dining experience, with jaw-dropping views of the Rocky and Purcell Mountain ranges in every direction.