Exploring Capri, Italy: An Insider Guide by iBestTravel
Get Capri wrong and it can be a major disappointment. Here, Nicky Swallow, who’s been going for years, provides all the classic addresses plus more unusual finds.
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An impressive chunk of limestone soaring from the Tyrrhenian Sea, Capri has been attracting attention since Roman times. The notorious Tiberius ruled the empire from the cliff-top Villa Jovis, and in the mid-19th century, the island became a magnet for artists and intellectuals. They were drawn by the inspirational scenery, gentle climate, and dreamy lifestyle: ‘Capri makes you forget everything,’ remarked Lenin during his visit in 1910.
Understanding Capri’s Evolution
In the 1950s and 1960s, the literati gave way to the glitterati. Images of notable figures, such as Jackie O wandering the narrow lanes in ankle-skimming Capri pants, are synonymous with the island’s appeal during the heady jetset age.
Visiting anywhere so famous is always tricky; I must confess to being disappointed the first time I stepped off the ferry at Marina Grande on a scorching August afternoon. The quay was lined with tacky souvenir shops and cheap bars, where glamour felt absent.
The Allure of Off-Season Visits
In high season, an average of 20,000 day-trippers flock to the island daily. Thankfully, I discovered ways to avoid the crowds. Capri is the sort of place that grows on you; however, it takes effort. Staying several nights is essential because day visitors leave by late afternoon, allowing you to enjoy a more relaxed experience.
May brings carpets of wildflowers that add glorious colors to the landscape, but the sea can be chilly. I personally prefer late September or early October when the evenings are balmy, the water is still warm, and the pace of life calms down.
Exploring Capri’s Unique Landscapes
Most of Capri town is only accessible by foot, necessitating reliance on open-topped Fiat taxis or crowded orange buses for longer distances. The island’s more remote side can be explored through its network of footpaths, yet to truly appreciate Capri, getting down to the sea is essential. A gentle cruise reveals secret coves, sea caves, and hidden villas along the cliffs.
Experiencing Capri’s Gastronomy
Capri boasts both rural farming and fishing communities, evident in the island’s culinary traditions emphasizing fresh ingredients. Dishes like insalata caprese are enhanced with real buffalo mozzarella, sun-ripened tomatoes, and vibrant basil grown in the island’s salty terraces.
Fat, round ravioli caprese and torta caprese (a moist chocolate cake made with ground almonds) are must-tries. The island’s vineyards have thrived for nearly 3,000 years, producing exceptional local wines, mostly whites from Falanghina and Biancolella grapes, that pair wonderfully with the food. After dinner, indulging in an ice-cold limoncello made from local lemons is the perfect capstone to your meal.
Must-Visit Spots in Capri
Starting any visit to Capri typically involves Marina Grande, which can feel overwhelming during peak season. To avoid hassle, consider entrusting your luggage to local porters who can deliver it to your hotel, while you enjoy a taxi ride or the scenic funicolare ride up to Capri town.
For a unique experience, visit the Blue Grotto, an underwater cave known for its ethereal iridescent blue light. For a more intimate experience, consider swimming into the cave from Anacapri after boat tours conclude for the day.
The Iconic Piazzetta
The Piazzetta, Capri’s bustling square, is a focal point of local life. As you sip an Aperol spritz and listen to the sounds of the lively environment, you’ll realize why this spot is referred to as the “small theatre of the world.”
The surrounding lanes may be crowded, but various quiet strolls abound. One popular walk leads to the Belvedere di Tragara, revealing stunning views of the iconic Faraglioni rock formations and other breathtaking landscapes.
Dining in Capri
DA PAOLINO
For a rustic dining experience, visit Da Paolino, located under a beautiful lemon tree, offering dishes like spaghetti alle vongole and sea bass baked in salt.
TERRAZZA TIBERIO
Evenings at Terrazza Tiberio are enchanting, featuring local dishes, such as carpaccio of ricciola and buckwheat ravioli with rabbit, olives, and pine nuts, tantalizing your taste buds with vibrant flavors.
MAMMA
Mamma’s menus reflect local traditions and include standout dishes like lemon-scented gnocchetti and roast suckling pig. For more casual fare, the nearby pizzeria Mammà offers delicious Neapolitan pizza.
LA CAPANNINA
This pink-hued establishment is famed for its ravioli alla caprese and linguine allo scorfano since 1931, ensuring a classic dining experience.
PULLALLI
With an intimate terrace, Pulalli offers a delightful view of life in the square below, accentuated by tangy risotto al limone amongst other exquisite dishes.
IL RICCIO
For lunch, Il Riccio, located at the beach, specializes in fresh seafood, served right by the water, making it an idyllic spot to unwind.
DA GELSOMINA
For a more casual meal, Da Gelsomina in Anacapri features a garden-grown menu and an inviting atmosphere, ideal for relaxing with homemade Falanghina and delicious pasta dishes.
In conclusion, Capri embodies the essence of Mediterranean beauty and rich culinary experiences. Whether you’re exploring its scenic landscapes or savoring local flavors, the island promises unforgettable memories. Prepare to be charmed by its enchanting allure.
