In iBestTravel, we take you step by step through how to put together some of the most complicated travel adventures. Here, Eva Sandoval explains how she planned her hike on the Path of the Gods on the Amalfi Coast.
As soon as you arrive on Italy’s Amalfi Coast – before you’ve even uncorked your limoncello – someone will ask, “Have you done the Path of the Gods?”
The concept doesn’t sound so odd in this heavenly landscape, where each rock and body of water has a Greek origin story. Known in Italian as il Sentiero degli dei, the Path of the Gods is an immensely popular mountain trail about 7km (4.34 miles) long, at the dizzying height of 630m (2065ft) above sea level. Legend says the trench was cut into the earth by the gods as they stampeded down from heaven to save Ulysses from the mermaids’ song.
The trail sweeps through olive groves, terraces, and magnificent expanses of blue sky and wine-dark sea. Peer down to see the jagged Amalfi Coast dotted with the colorful tiled domes of Praiano and Positano, the Faraglioni of Capri winking in the distance.
The Path of the Gods has entranced generations of poets and artists, including Italo Calvino and DH Lawrence. However, there’s more to the Path of the Gods than feeling poetic: this odyssey, which can take from 3 to 5 hours, boasts three different starting points and various loops. It’s a medium-intensity trek, so you’ll need to be reasonably fit to tackle the sometimes-uneven terrain, steep inclines, and – of course – all the stairs.
Wait – stairs? Yes. They’re why this particular journey requires a bit of planning. Here’s how to have a truly otherworldly experience on the Path of the Gods.
Step 1: Choose Your Moment
The shoulder season provides the best weather and fewer fellow travelers.
It’s never advisable to visit the Amalfi Coast during high season, which brings high prices, high temperatures, and high stress. The Path of the Gods will be unbearably hot, and you’ll have to fight for a seat on public transit. Therefore, time your visit for the off-season or the shoulder season, from March to early June and September to October. You’ll encounter other pilgrims, but still get enough solitude to feel like the gods have created this path just for you. Whenever you choose to hike this trail, start as early as possible to beat the worst heat and maximize daylight.
Step 2: Choose Your Company
Grab a friend or hire a guide.
Due to the rugged nature of the hike – and the fact that your cell phone will be out of range for most of the time – it’s a good idea to hike with a buddy. You can also hire an official local guide; while the trail is clearly marked, a guide can help fill in the gaps in the shrubbery. Having an experienced companion can help enhance your journey with local insights and make the hike safer and more enjoyable.
Step 3: Pack Your Sack
Pack light but sensibly.
Bring a lightweight rucksack; water is non-negotiable. There’s little shade, so wear a hat and a top with sleeves to prevent your backpack straps from chafing your shoulders. Trail shoes with grippy soles are a must; sunscreen and bug repellent are also handy. Make sure your phone is fully charged – for while you won’t have much service, you’ll want to capture the glorious panoramas.
Step 4: Choose Your Own Adventure
Select your path to the gods.
The Path of the Gods – stretching from the hamlet of Agerola to Positano – has three entry points leading to a fork at Colle Serra where the trail splits into alto (high) and basso (low) routes. Your choice will determine your exit, as well as your scenery and effort level.
You can reach your starting point via car, scooter, or public transit. Driving in the Amalfi Coast presents its challenges; think insane traffic, unending curves, and steep drops to the sea below. If you opt for public transport, note that during high season, buses may be standing-room only. No matter how you arrive, ensure you plan for your return trip, as transportation options can vary greatly based on the time of year.
The Agerola (Bomerano) to Nocelle or Positano route is undoubtedly the most popular, as it’s less physically taxing while offering the most majestic views. The full trail is about 6 km (3.72 miles) and will take roughly 3.5 hours, though slight differences in available routes can mean it might take longer. Here come those stairs.
Agerola (Bomerano) > Nocelle/Positano
Drive or take the 5080 bus from Amalfi to Agerola (Bomerano) – famed for its delicious Provolone del Monaco cheese. The trail starts past the piazza, where you’ll find a hiking supply store and bars to stock up on water, snacks, and supplies. Inhale the perfume of wild rosemary and lemon groves; gaze down at the sea. Eventually, you’ll hit the fork at Colle Serra, where you’ll have a few options.
Turn back to Agerola: The “half-loop.” A great option if you’re short on time and energy. This journey will cover 7km (4.34 miles) and takes about 4 hours depending on your pace.
Take the high road (327A): This path is steeper, gaining 150m (492ft) in elevation. After a while, the high road rejoins the low road as you head toward Nocelle, near Positano.
Take the low road (327): This easier path leads you past a lovely fountain as you make your way to Nocelle. There, you’ll find bathrooms and the “Lemon Point” stand selling refreshing lemon slushies. Prepare yourself for the 1700 stone steps all the way down to Positano, where you will arrive in triumph – just like Ulysses escaping the sirens.
Positano/Nocelle > Agerola (Bomerano)
Alternatively, you can reverse your route and start with an uphill climb – from Positano up the 1700 steps to Nocelle. Upon reaching the fork, you can choose either the high or low paths. When they come back together at Colle Serra, you can select your endpoint of Praiano or Agerola, then take the 5070 or 5080 bus back to Amalfi. Keep in mind; the most thrilling coastal scenery will be behind you. This route can take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours.
Praiano > Nocelle/Positano
If you prefer a different approach, consider starting from the town of Praiano, approximately 4km (2.5 miles) west of Agerola, merging with the “low” route. While it seems like a time saver, you’ll have to climb nearly 2000 steps to meet the gods.
If I Could Do It All Again…
I would seize the opportunity in a heartbeat. What a stunning, otherworldly experience! The next time I come, I will plan my hike during the shoulder season. I might opt for the Agerola half-loop to take a detour to a dairy for some delightful Provolone del Monaco. I can assure you; I will not begin my journey from Praiano.
