Chef Damian D’Silva on Where He Eats in His Hometown

A lifelong evangelist for Singapore’s heritage cuisines, Chef Damian D’Silva has recreated forgotten recipes at his previous restaurants Folklore and Kin, and is currently working on an all-new restaurant opening in 2022.

How Has Singapore’s Food Scene Changed Over the Years?

The landscape of food in Singapore has transformed significantly from the mid-1960s to the early 1980s. During this time, chickens were reared locally, and pig farms were a common sight across the island. Food was predominantly artisanal, and the term ‘frozen’ was considered a taboo. Hawkers crafted fish balls daily using the freshest fish available. One notable dish, Nasi Lemak, which hails from the Malay community, was prepared in coastal villages utilizing freshly squeezed coconut and sambal, often accompanied by fish caught that very day—perhaps even by the cook’s family member.

Even the staple soy sauce was an artisanal creation, sold by an uncle who made the rounds in different neighborhoods each week. Unfortunately, as Singapore progressed, many food peddlers were relocated to hawker centers, leading to the fading of traditional sounds—such as the ‘tik-tok’ of utensils and the cheerful calls announcing their presence.

Favorite Local Restaurants

For an authentic street food experience, I recommend:

• Bak Chor Mee (noodles with minced meat) at Block 58 New Upper Changi Road
• Fried Kway Teow at Hill Street Fried Kway Teow in Chinatown Complex
• Appom Pancakes at Madras New Woodlands Restaurant on Upper Dickson Road
• Indian Mixed Rice at Barakath Restaurant on Dalhousie Lane
• Zai Shun Curry Fish Head at Jurong East Street 24

While I typically avoid fine-dining establishments, I do appreciate Naked Finn, Le Bon Funk, and Nicolas Le Restaurant for a more upscale dining experience.

Markets Worth Visiting

One of my preferred markets is the 58 New Upper Changi Road Market, conveniently located near my home. Geylang Serai Market is a fantastic place to find herbs, gula melaka, and peeled shallots—definitely a blessing when you’ve peeled 10 kilos of shallots! I also frequent Chinatown Market and Albert Centre for dried goods such as prawns, scallops, anchovies, and nuts.

Beyond Food: Other Local Treasures

Consider purchasing an antique from one of Singapore’s unique junk stores. My go-to spot is Tong Mern Sern on Craig Road, which boasts three floors of antiques that will delight any collector. In terms of the arts, Iskandar Jalil has made incredible strides in ceramics in Singapore. His pottery reflects a deep appreciation for ‘perfection in imperfection,’ emphasizing a sensitive artistic vision.

Favorite Hangout Spots

For a casual drink, I recommend No.5 Emerald Hill, a bar that perfectly encapsulates the nostalgia of 1980s Singapore. While the cocktails may not be avant-garde, the ambiance is comforting, and the beer is always cold. Additionally, I dream of experiencing a stay at Raffles Singapore Hotel to soak in its rich history and marvelous charm—a quintessential experience that I’ve yet to enjoy!