Elegant tailoring maestro Rok Hwang, whose edgy label Rokh has catapulted him to K-fashion poster-child status in just a few years, shares his tips on the high-octane capital.
7 June 2021
What is Your Relationship With Seoul?
“I was born here, though raised in Texas and now based in London, so this is where my roots are. It’s a place with a strong mix of tradition, culture, and technology, which I find refreshing. It is full of Le Corbusier-style Eighties apartment buildings and futuristic skyrises, surrounded by rolling blue mountains. There’s an almost sci-fi feel – especially at night when it comes to life in neon.”
Where Do You Stay?
“I like Bukchon Hanok Village to the north, known for its 14th-century Hanok architecture, with curved roofs and central courtyards. Hanok means house, but this particular style makes use of natural materials that ensure the buildings stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Rakkojae hotel is a typical example, hidden away on a cobbled side street, with traditional details such as signature wooden window frames and calligraphy wall hangings, plus a beautiful rock garden. It has a unique yellow-mud sauna, heated by a kiln. The scent of aged wood and cold stone makes a stay very special.”
Which Green Spaces Do You Visit?
“Bukhansan National Park in the north has three major peaks that loom above the city. As soon as I arrive, my mindset is completely detached from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I go into relax mode. People can discover the trails, small lakes, and Buddhist temples, including Guknyeongsa, which has an 80ft golden Buddha statue. Many temples are working monasteries, so you can hear chanting in the air.”
What’s the Best Way to Soak Up the Atmosphere?
“I love driving around after dusk. One of my favorite memories is the moonlight tour of Changdeokgung, one of the Five Grand Palaces of the Joseon dynasty, sitting in its own giant park in central Jongnogu. It’s only open to the public on limited dates, making a night stroll not to be missed. Everyone walks through the meticulous gardens and the red and green wooden structures with hanging lanterns – the scene is mesmerizing.”
Where Do You Head for Some Culture?
“I usually try to visit the Bukchon Traditional Crafts Centre in Gahoe-dong. Its exhibition hall displays heritage crafts from tailoring to woodwork, and visitors can take a class to try out the methods used to create the pieces. You can see how unusual color combinations are applied in items like dyed scarves and knotted bracelets, providing a real understanding of Korean heritage.”
Favorite Places to Eat?
“I keep going back to Jungsik Seoul, on the southern side of the river in Gangnam-gu. The food is incredibly tasty, with the kitchen serving contemporary, innovative options such as sea-urchin bibimbap and beef with white kimchi. The space is light and open, with blue sofas and minimal linen walls, and the staff are very friendly.”
Where is Good for a Coffee Break?
“Seoul is famous for its cafés – you can find them on every block in various shapes and sizes. I love Earth Us, to the west in Mapo-gu. It’s a small space but gained popularity when featured in a YouTube video for K-pop star Chuu. It uses carefully sourced ingredients and offers a very distinctive, earthy selection of coffee, including non-dairy versions, as well as cute little cakes.”
Any Other Foodie Recommendations?
“Korea is great for new ideas, with a trend called K-food, which is an inventive spin on classics such as giant macarons and deep-fried eggs. A must-try is tiramisu in a cup from Mangwon-dong Tiramisu in Ikseon-dong village, which makes fusion versions with green tea, fruit, or grain powder. The tiramisu has a delightful light, fluffy texture, perfect for enjoying while exploring the vibrant neighborhood.”
Tips for Shopping?
“The Dongmyo flea market in the east is a local spot where people trade and sell vintage items. You can discover rare finds, such as branded products from the 1970s and 1980s, antique ceramics, and quality clothing. Expect old industrial parts from Seoul’s automobile industry alongside garments from the US military presence. Dongmyo offers a very different feel compared to European markets and is definitely worth a visit.”
What is the Best Thing You’ve Bought Here?
“I like to travel light but always try to purchase a scent or candle produced in Korea. This way, I can relive moments from the trip through olfactory memory when I’m home. I once found a candle called The Raindrops by Korean brand Soohyang at its store in Sinsa-dong – it captures the exact scent of rainy days in Seoul.”
How Has the City Influenced Your Work?
“I can never define my influences exactly as I have had such a multicultural experience living in different cities, but Seoul is a very open-minded and adventurous place. It has undoubtedly impacted me with a rich experimental creative scene, from artist Do Ho Suh to film director Bong Joon Ho, and of course, the K-Pop phenomenon. I always hope to carry this attitude into my designs.”
