Exploring Venice in 2020: A Crowds-Free Paradise
Visitors to Venice
In 2020, the enchanting city of Venice presents a rare opportunity to experience its beauty without the overwhelming crowds. My wife and I are wandering the narrow streets of Dorsoduro amidst a sparse number of visitors, mainly German-speaking tourists occasionally stopped to glance at shop windows or check maps.
During a typical year, Venice would be bustling with over 26 million visitors, highlighting the scale of tourism in contrast to its 53,000 residents. The sheer volume of visitors is akin to New York City, with 88 billion visitors annually—an unimaginable figure for most destinations.
Since the lockdown ended on June 3, locals and some neighboring European visitors have returned. However, the absence of non-European tourists, who usually represent 50% of all visitors, is evident. The usual cruise ships are also absent, reducing the strain on this historic city.
The has drastically affected tourism, with numbers dropping by four-fifths, deeply impacting the local economy that employs 65% of the population. Historically, Venice has faced various crises, but the current situation presents a unique challenge.
Notably, Venice has dealt with plague outbreaks in the past, and the term “quarantine” was actually coined here in the 14th century, enforcing a 40-day isolation period for ships possibly carrying the disease.
The Sights
Our leisurely stroll takes us past noteworthy locations like the and the , both of which have limited hours due to diminished foot traffic. Unfortunately, we venture out on a day when both are closed.
Fortunately, many major attractions remain open with full summer hours. We visit the , famous for Tintoretto’s stunning , which were created during a severe plague outbreak that devastated the population.
In any other year, the line would be extensive, and inside, guests would be packed into the Sala dell’Albergo. However, today, we share the magnificent room with no more than a dozen other guests.
Local Businesses
While the emptiness of museums and the unobstructed views of Venice are a delight for visitors, local businesses are considerably less enthusiastic. Many hotels have remained closed, and those that have reopened are working hard to fill their rooms, often at reduced rates.
During our stay at the Hotel Giorgione, a luxurious four-star establishment in the Cannaregio district, we noticed that occupancy is around 70%, primarily from last-minute guests. Hotel manager Marisa Milanese described their reopening as an act of courage, yet even with some optimistic bookings, they anticipate operating at a loss.
Many restaurants catering to tourists remain closed, while those open are “living day by day,” as cuisine blogger Monica Cesarato notes. Organizing supplies has become a challenge, with restaurants uncertain about daily foot traffic.
Nonetheless, Monica sees a silver lining, stating that excellent restaurants catering to local tastes thrive, especially those active on social media during lockdown, remaining memorable to patrons.
We indulged in local recommendations and enjoyed delightful Venetian-style tapas known as cicchetti at El Sbarlefo San Pantalon. Often made from seafood, this cuisine is prevalent throughout the city, but the truly exceptional flavors stand out starkly against more generic tourist fare.
We attempted to dine at Hostaria Bacanera, recommended as a top choice for contemporary Venetian cuisine at reasonable prices. However, the hostess informed us that the restaurant was fully booked, signaling the local preference for authentic dining experiences.
Our time in Venice concluded with a refreshing absence of exhaustion typically felt after visiting heavily trafficked tourist spots. We followed the advice of Venetians concerned about overtourism by staying in registered hotels, dining in local eateries, and purchasing souvenirs from local artisans.
Although I hope for Venice’s full recovery from its economic hardships, part of me echoes St. Augustine’s sentiment: give me tourists, but not yet.
