Explore Corsica: A Guide to Outdoor Adventures and Cultural Treasures
Close your right fist, with your thumb over your fingers. Now point your index finger and you have an almost perfect representation of the island of Corsica – essentially a mountain range jutting out of the Mediterranean, whose highest peaks remain snow-capped well into the spring.
Its people are proud of their island: many consider themselves to be Corsican first and (reluctantly) French second, even though the island’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte, became emperor of France! You’ll see graffiti – usually in Corsican, which is closer to Italian than it is to French – calling for independence in the most unexpected places. The Corsican flag (known locally as A bandera testa mora) is everywhere: a black profile facing left with a white bandana knotted at the back. Why? Nobody is really sure and there are many legends, but the latest academic hypothesis is that the head belonged to Black Egyptian Christian martyr Saint Maurice d’Aguane, whose Latin name Mauritius led to confusion that this was the head of a Moor.
This stunning island has few museums, art galleries, cinemas, or theaters. Instead, Corsica is a destination for those who love outdoor activities: hiking, swimming, sailing, kayaking, diving, and enjoying great food at the end of it all.
1. Hike the GR20 (aka Fra li Monti)
This is the mythical 200km-long (124 miles) hiking route, mostly along mountain ridges, from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south, that most French people associate with Corsica (along with the beaches of course).
Reputed as one of the toughest hikes in Europe, it will take an experienced hiker 16 days to complete, with every night spent in a refuge. However, hiking the entire trail is not necessary; one can just do a small segment in a day and get a taxi to pick you up, or start your hike at Vizzavona where you can catch a train. The northern section is the hardest, with steep and rocky paths, while the south offers smoother and slightly flatter trails.
It’s wise to be well prepared before embarking on this hike. It should not be attempted by children under 12, and the ideal trekking time is between June and the end of August when the trails are more accessible. Detailed information and instructions about the trail can be acquired from local resources.
2. Drive from Francardo to Porto
The narrow D84 road from Francardo to Porto is only 78.6 km (48.8 miles) long, but driving it non-stop would take two hours – “twisty” doesn’t even begin to describe it. However, this road is incredibly scenic, providing numerous opportunities for stops to admire the landscape of granite peaks, deep gorges, Alpine meadows, and stunning lakes while sharing the road with Corsica’s wild black pigs and cows, particularly during the summer months.
Detour: The road climbs past the village of Calacuccia and its eponymous lake, a hydroelectric reservoir, to the col de Vergio (Vergio pass) at 1467 m (4812 ft), where you’ll see an abandoned ski-lift, the remains of the island’s biggest ski resort. As you descend towards the sea through the Aïtone pine forest, don’t miss the small waterfalls and natural pools accessible via a short hike.
3. Explore the island by train
If driving along Corsica’s vertiginous roads does not appeal, then consider taking the train. The scenic line travels from Ajaccio to the central town of Ponte Leccia (2hrs 40mins), with branches leading to Calvi (1hr 50mins) or Bastia (1hr 45mins).
The train winds through the mountains providing breathtaking views of Corsica’s highest peak, the Monte Cinto (2706m/8878ft), and picturesque stone villages, fields dotted with sheep and goats, and expansive rivers and gorges.
Most importantly, some of the stops are optional, so if you wish to disembark, simply push the button next to the train door. If you’re at an optional station and want to board, just wave to the train driver.
4. Find Bastia’s historic heart
Bastia, Corsica’s economic capital, often gets overlooked by tourists. This town, designed for its local population of 52,000 rather than tourists, retains much to offer for a day’s entertainment. The historic heart of the city, known as Terra Vecchia, is bracketed by the old port, with the church of Saint John the Baptist being a significant landmark, the largest church in Corsica.
Planning tip: Make sure to visit the bustling market called u mercà, just north of the old port on the Place de l’hôtel de ville, which becomes particularly lively on weekends.
5. Discover seven centuries of island history
The upper part of the city of Bastia, or Terra Nova, clusters around the Genoese citadel, fostering a rich historical narrative through the Governors’ Palace, which dates back to 1530. Within, the city museum covers seven centuries of the island’s history, inviting visitors to explore its fascinating past.
6. Don’t miss Les Calanques de Piana
These stunning red-and-pink calanques (steep-sided granite valleys or inlets) lie within a UNESCO World Heritage site along the west coast between Calvi and Ajaccio. The best approach to these breathtaking features is from Piana. As you drive north along the narrow road winding through rocks, the impressive formations take shape, showcasing nature’s artistry.
Detour: Several car parks can be found along the route, including one at La tête du chien, from which a fairly easy path leads to a rocky platform commanding an extraordinary view of the calanques.
7. Explore the ancient churches of Cargèse
This charming village, located south of Porto, features one of Corsica’s most beautiful churches, known as the only Greek Orthodox church on the island, Saint Spyridon. Constructed by the descendants of those who fled the Ottomans in the 17th century, this neo-Gothic style temple is adorned with stunning icons dating back to the 13th century.
8. Get to know Napoleon in Ajaccio
In Ajaccio, Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace, his influence is everywhere, from street names to museums. The Palais Fesch, housing the art collection of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon’s uncle, features remarkable works by Renaissance and 17th-century artists. Visitors should also consider a visit to Maison Bonaparte for an immersive historical experience.
9. View the clifftop beauty of Bonifacio from the sea
Bonifacio, Corsica’s oldest town, is noted for its stunning position atop 100m-high cliffs, offering phenomenal views across to Sardinia. For newcomers, the best way to appreciate its majesty is from the water, with boat tours providing the ultimate perspective on this remarkable locale.
10. Create rock art on the black sand beach of Nonza
Located about a third of the way up the eastern coast of Cap Corse, Nonza provides dramatic views over a black beach, which is often uncrowded. Visitors can traverse over 500 steps to reach it or simply enjoy the charm of the village from above, where local delicacies can be savored.
11. Follow in the footsteps of the customs officers
If you’re up for a hike but find the GR20 daunting, try the 25km-long Sentiers des Douaniers (customs officers’ path), running around Cap Corse. This rewarding journey offers diverse landscapes, from sandy beaches to rocky coastlines, historical remnants, and the potential to encounter stunning wildlife.
