Mindful Train Journey from Vienna to Bucharest
Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike. In this installment, Monisha Rajesh documents her rail journey from Vienna to Bucharest.
It’s not often that I board a train with trepidation. However, that morning was different. After speaking with an attendant on the Austrian Nightjet service to Vienna, who expressed disapproval about continuing to Bucharest by train, I couldn’t shake the feeling of uncertainty. She asked, “On the Dacia? That’s a terrible train – it’s so long. And it’s a Romanian train. Watch out for your things, yes?” Despite this, I dismissed such casual stereotyping.
As I made my way onto the bright Dacia, pronounced “dat-sya,” my apprehensions faded. The train was superior to the Nightjet, featuring freshly fitted carpets and comfortable couchettes. With only two fellow riders in my compartment, I felt an immediate sense of camaraderie. My compartment-mates, both heading to Mediaș in Transylvania, adjusted the temperature, shared snacks, and charged their devices together.
The Dining Experience
What makes a sleeper train experience memorable is usually the dining car. Regrettably, there wasn’t one attached to this train at the start of our journey. Stories of the lively Bar Bistro carriage and its renowned mixed grill had filled my ear. Alas, I discovered these had been discontinued. Consequently, we prepared with our own picnics, filling the air with the aroma of homemade stew as the train departed.
Nighttime Border Checks
As we ventured through the night, I observed the comforting rhythm of Vienna morph into the serene landscapes beyond. Given that both Austria and Hungary are part of the Schengen Area, we crossed the first border seamlessly. Yet, I kept my passport close, prepared for the 2 am check inside the Hungarian border. The experience was tranquil, with only the sound of the train rocking southeast toward Budapest.
Later, I awoke to the familiar sensations of travel as the train approached Dumbraveni in Transylvania. A breathtaking blizzard enveloped our carriage, and I cherished this enchanting winter scene, silently pondering the beauty around me. The landscape was transformed into a monochromatic canvas, evoking a sense of peace.
The Bar Carriage Experience
Motivated to discover the bar carriage that had been added overnight, I swung by and encountered a few fellow passengers enjoying the simple offerings of ham and salad sandwiches, alongside whiskies like Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker. Though this setup fell short of initial expectations, the ambiance contributed to the overall adventure.
As we approached Bucharest, the clouds parted, revealing a sunny sky above. My heart swelled with anticipation as we glided past shimmering lakes and fields, marking the end of our 685-mile journey. Upon arrival, I gathered my belongings and stepped onto the bustling platform, eager to explore the vibrant city.
Traveling Tips for the Dacia Train Journey
- Tickets for the Dacia can be purchased up to 90 days in advance, with prices starting from €42 for a coach seat.
- A couchette costs approximately €52 for a six-person and €59 for a four-person space. For added privacy, consider a private en-suite cabin starting at €159.
- Be prepared with enough food and drink for the first night, as there is currently no bistro car on board.
- A dining car attaches overnight, offering hot and cold drinks and sandwiches available from around 8 am.
- Remember to carry cash, as credit and debit cards are not accepted on the train.
