Xochimilco: The Venice of Mexico
Just 45 minutes south of downtown Mexico City, you’ll find Xochimilco, or the Venice of Mexico. Here, you can float down the canals on traditional trajinera boats or hire a mariachi to serenade you with local music. Xochimilco provides an experience that you would never expect to have in Mexico City and makes for a fun and interesting day trip.
Chinampas or “Floating Gardens”
Xochimilco (pronounced so-chee-MIL-ko) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located about 17 miles (28 km) south of the capital’s historical center. The name comes from Nahuatl (the language of the Aztecs) and means “flower garden.” The canals of Xochimilco are a vestige of the Aztec agricultural technique of using “chinampas” to extend arable land in wetland areas.
Chinampas are raised agricultural fields between canals. They are formed by rooting rectangular cane frames to the lake floor and filling them with alternating layers of aquatic weeds, muck, and earth until they rise up about one meter above the surface of the water. Willow trees (ahujotes) are planted along the edges of the fields and their roots help to contain the chinampas. Although they’re called “floating gardens,” chinampas are in fact rooted to the lake bed. This agricultural technique demonstrates the ingenuity of the Aztecs and their ability to adapt to their surroundings. Chinampas allowed for intensive farming of swampy areas and supported the Aztec empire in sustaining a large population.
Ride on a Trajinera
The brightly colored boats that transport passengers through the canals of Xochimilco are called trajineras (pronounced “tra-hee-nair-ahs”). These flat-bottomed boats are similar to gondolas, making for an enjoyable experience. You can hire one to take you for a ride, which tends to be most fun in a group; the boats seat about a dozen people. If you’re only a few people, you may find it convenient to join another group, or you can hire a boat just for your party. The cost is approximately 350 pesos per hour for the boat.
During your ride around the canals, you will encounter other trajineras, some selling food while others offer musical entertainment like mariachi performances.
La Isla de Las Muñecas
One of Mexico’s creepier attractions, La Isla de las Muñecas, or “The Island of the Dolls,” is situated in the Xochimilco canals. The legend behind this island tells that many years ago its caretaker, Don Julian Santana, discovered the body of a girl who drowned in the canal. Shortly thereafter, he found a doll floating nearby. He tied it to a tree as a sign of respect for the girl’s spirit. Apparently haunted by her, Don Julian continued to hang old dolls in various conditions on the trees of this small island to appease her spirit. Although Don Julian passed away in 2001, the dolls remain and continue to deteriorate, becoming increasingly eerie over time.
How to Get There
To reach Xochimilco, take Metro Line 2 (the blue line) to Tasqueña (sometimes spelled Taxqueña). Outside the Tasqueña metro station, you can board the Tren Ligero (light rail). Keep in mind that the light rail does not accept Metro tickets; you must purchase separate tickets (approximately $3). Xochimilco is the final station on the Tren Ligero line, and the embarcaderos are just a short walk away. Follow the arrows on the small blue signs—they will guide you to the pier.
For those with limited time, consider taking a tour. A day trip to Xochimilco frequently includes stops at nearby sites such as Coyoacan, where you can visit the Frida Kahlo House Museum or the UNAM campus (Mexico’s National Autonomous University), which is also a UNESCO site.
What to Know
Bear in mind that Xochimilco can be a popular destination for Mexican families and friends on weekends and holidays, leading to crowded conditions. While this can create a lively atmosphere, if you prefer a more tranquil visit, it is advisable to go during the week.
Food and drinks can be purchased from other passing trajineras, or to save money, consider bringing your own snacks. It is recommended to hire a trajinera for at least two hours to explore different parts of the canals. Remember, don’t pay the boatman until the end of your ride, and it is customary to offer a tip.
Xoximilco Park in Cancun
In Cancun, there is a park that recreates the floating gardens experience of Xochimilco. Known as “Xoximilco,” this park, operated by Experiencias Xcaret, provides tours on trajineras and serves traditional Mexican cuisine and drinks while passengers enjoy various genres of traditional music. Unlike the original Xochimilco, this Cancun park presents a nighttime experience.